‘Помылся – будто заново родился’ : ‘washing oneself is like being born again’
A visit to the Russian banya is a must-do cultural activity for anyone wanting to experience Russia like a local. Ever since its conception in medieval times, the ritual of visiting a Russian banya has taken on an almost sacred meaning in Russian culture because of its psychological and physical benefits. It is believed to boost the immune system and reduce stress. There is even an old saying that goes: ‘помылся – будто заново родился’ (‘washing oneself is to be born again’). Ask any Russian and they will swear by the banya’s healing powers and may even just invite you to join them on their next visit. Here is a step-by-step walk-through of the Russian banya.
I remember my first experience to a Russian banya as if it was yesterday. In the middle of November in snow-bitten provincial Perm, some acquaintances invited me to come with them to the banya. Unwittingly, I accepted the invitation without any hesitation as I knew this could be my only chance to experience this authentic Russian ritual for myself. The closer it got to the time, however, the more apprehensive I began to feel; no-one could confirm for me whether I would need to wear swim trunks or whether I should expect to sit around sans clothes…
Well, I can confirm that my first plunge into the Russian banya was 100% stark naked. If you are going with a group of friends it is likely you will be sitting around for a few hours in your birthday suit. But don’t let this put you off! Even by British standards I am a very prudish person, and although I was very uncomfortable at first, the feeling very quickly dispelled. Instead, I think I was more distracted by beer, shashlik and hearty conversation! You will probably have something to eat or drink at the banya, so it would be polite to ask if you should bring anything with you. Furthermore, you can usually expect a trip to the banya to last 2-3 hours, so this is an opportunity to talk openly about life’s big questions and practice your Russian!
The banya is insanely hot! You should make sure that your first time in the banya is with people you trust, because it can take a while for your body to get used to the heat. So…”what actually happens?” I hear you ask. Well, the banya is much like a wooden sauna in appearance, and involves sitting in extreme heat and intermittently pouring water over boiling hot stones to increase the humidity. This opens the pores and promotes a healthy kind of sweating in order to help your body relax and release toxins.
Do not be alarmed if someone offers to “парить тебя веником”/beat you with a broom of dried birch leaves – this is normal practice in a Russian banya. Someone will usually spend some time lashing your body with birch leaves, aiming to conjure a warm, red glow on your body. Russians do this because it is believed to aid circulation around the body. Moreover, you may find that your street-cred is a little damaged at the banya. Russians often wear funny little felt hats when they enter the banya, which – apart from making you resemble a naked garden gnome – help to stop the head from over-heating.
If you’re lucky enough to visit the banya in winter, you may get to do the crazy thing of jumping in the snow straight after heating up! People do this dare-devil ritual after the banya because it is supposed to help develop the immune system. It may seem like a strange logic, but it is one of the quirky Russian traditions that you just have try – even if it is just for the adrenaline rush! They say try everything once, right?
You can also check out our previous intern Fredrik’s experience here.
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